There Is No 'One Best' Empire Heater (And Here's Why That's Good News)
If you're searching for an Empire Comfort Systems propane heater or a wall heater because someone told you they're 'the best,' stop right there.
The honest answer? There isn't a single 'best' unit. The right choice depends on whether you're replacing an existing unit, doing a new install, or sourcing a replacement part for a customer. I learned this the expensive way.
I've been handling HVAC parts orders for a small distributor in the Midwest for about 6 years now. In my first year (2017), I made a classic mistake: I ordered 40 Empire Comfort Systems DV-210-S direct-vent propane heaters for a contractor who was building out a strip of new offices. I checked the model number, the BTU rating, the dimensions—everything looked fine. The contractor called me a week later, furious. The units wouldn't light.
The issue? The propane orifice was wrong for the elevation. That mistake cost roughly $4,800 in return shipping, restocking fees, and a lost customer relationship. The lesson? Specs matter more than brand names.
Since then, I've built a simple decision tree for anyone asking me which Empire product to get. It's not perfect—your mileage may vary—but it's saved me from repeating that $4,800 error. Here's the framework.
Before We Start: The Two Things You Must Know (Even Before Looking at Models)
Regardless of which Empire product you're considering—a wall heater, a propane heater, or a thermostat—you need to answer two questions first:
- What is your fuel type and elevation? Propane vs. natural gas vs. electric is obvious. But elevation matters for gas appliances. Per the ANSI Z223.1/NFPA 54 standard (effective 2024), gas appliances may require derating at elevations over 2,000 feet. At 5,000 feet (like parts of Colorado), derating can be 10-15%. Most Empire units come with specific orifices for elevation ranges. If you miss this, you get my $4,800 problem.
- What is your existing installation type? Are you replacing a vented unit, a direct-vent unit, or a vent-free unit? Empire Comfort Systems wall heaters come in all three types. Mixing them up can be dangerous (or illegal).
Alright, with those two data points in hand, let's break down your scenario.
Scenario A: You Are Replacing an Existing Gas Heater
Who this is for: You have a dead or outdated gas heater, and you want a drop-in replacement with minimal modification.
The recommendation: Match the existing unit's BTU input and venting type exactly. Don't try to upsize.
In 2022, I had a contractor who wanted to replace a 20-year-old Empire DV-12 wall heater with a newer, higher-BTU unit to 'heat the room faster.' We ordered a DV-30. It required a larger vent pipe. The install turned into a two-day job, and the homeowner ended up with a $1,200 labor bill instead of a $400 swap.
My advice: If you're replacing, look for an Empire heater with the same vent type and BTU range. The Empire DV-210 series (20,000 BTU) is a popular replacement for older DV-12 units. Check the manual for vent size compatibility. If you're unsure, take a photo of the rating plate (usually inside the lower panel) and send it to tech support. I've done this—they'll confirm within a day.
"This worked for us because we had a direct-vent setup. If you have a B-vent (natural draft) system, the DV series isn't for you. Different vent requirements."
A Quick Tip: How to Read a Tape Measure for Vent Sizing
I still see contractors eyeballing vent pipe diameters. Don't. A standard 4-inch vent pipe has an outer diameter of around 4.5 inches (the inner diameter is what matters). For Empire direct-vent units, the vent pipe is usually a 2-pipe system (combustion air intake and exhaust). Measure the inside diameter of the existing pipe. If it's 3 inches, you need a 3-inch vent kit. If it's 4 inches, get the 4-inch kit. Using the wrong size can cause backdrafting, which is a safety hazard—and a code violation (per NFPA 54).
Scenario B: You Are Doing a New Installation
Who this is for: You have an empty wall, a new addition, or a basement that needs heat. No existing heater to match.
The recommendation: Prioritize vent-free or direct-vent based on your building's air sealing and local code. For new construction, go direct-vent.
Vent-free heaters (like Empire's VFD series) are cheaper and easier to install—no vent pipe needed. However, they release combustion byproducts into the room. That's fine for well-ventilated spaces, but many jurisdictions now restrict vent-free heaters in bedrooms or bathrooms (check your local code). One of the building inspectors I know told me he's rejected more vent-free installs than any other type in 2024. (Ugh.)
My personal bias: For new builds, always go direct-vent. The Empire DV-20 or DV-30 series is my go-to for new installations. Yes, it costs more upfront—probably $200-300 more than a vent-free unit (as of Q4 2024 pricing). But you avoid the headache of any future crackdown on vent-free units, and the room maintains better air quality.
"I can only speak to single-family residential installs. If you're dealing with a multi-tenant building, the fire code can be different—check with your local authority."
Scenario C: You Need a Replacement Part (Not a Whole Heater)
Who this is for: You have an Empire heater that works fine, but a part has failed—typically a thermostat, a gas valve, or a pilot assembly.
The recommendation: Use the model number and serial number to look up the exact part number. Do not guess.
This is where I see the most costly mistakes. A contractor once tried to install a universal Honeywell thermostat on a 2019 Empire DV-210 heater. It worked for two days, then the heater wouldn't cycle off. The issue? The system required an Empire-compatible remote thermostat with a specific millivolt rating. The Honeywell unit didn't draw the correct amount of power.
Empire's tech support lineup is actually pretty good for phone support (honestly—this isn't typical, but I've gotten a human within 5 minutes before). Their part numbers are consistent across models. For example, the pilot assembly for most DV series heaters is P/N 2000-102 (as of January 2025). Just double-check.
And here's a dirty secret: you can often find Empire-compatible parts cheaper from third-party suppliers on Amazon or Zoro—just match the part number. I've saved about 20% doing that. (Not that I always do—sometimes the convenience of a single source is worth the markup.)
How to Decide Which Scenario You're In (The 5-Question Checklist)
I've seen people spend hours browsing product pages because they don't know where to start. Here's a 2-minute self-assessment that I made after my third major ordering error:
- Do you already own a heater?
- Yes → Scenario A (Replace)
- No → Go to question 2.
- Is this a new wall opening?
- Yes → Scenario B (New Install)
- No → You might be replacing but forgot the old one? Go back to Q1.
- Does the existing vent pipe exist and look functional?
- Yes → You're likely Scenario A. Stick with direct-vent.
- No → Scenario B. Plan for new venting (costly but required).
- Is the problem that the heater exists but doesn't work?
- Yes, and the heater is less than 15 years old → Scenario C (Part replacement).
- No, or the heater is older than 15 years → Replace the whole unit (Scenario A) might be more cost-effective. Parts for old models get harder to find.
- Do you need to read a tape measure for clearances or vent sizing?
- Yes → Measure the inside diameter of the vent pipe. I've caught two installers trying to use a 3-inch pipe on a 4-inch unit. It doesn't fit. Use a tape measure with a hook at the end to get a precise inner diameter.
That's it. If you've answered these, you know which section of this article to focus on.
Final Warning: The 'Small Order' Myth
I started my career handling small orders ($200-500) for contractors who were just starting out. More than once, I had a vendor tell me they couldn't be bothered with a single gas valve order. That's why we now stock Empire parts for exactly these sizes.
Today's small customer is tomorrow's $20,000 account. I've watched a contractor go from ordering one Empire wall heater for his garage to buying 15 units for a new apartment complex. The vendor who treated his 'small' order with respect earned that $18,000 order a year later.
If you're a small contractor or a homeowner doing a single install, don't let anyone make you feel like your $300 order is unimportant. You're paying full price—you deserve full service. And if a parts supplier treats you like a nuisance? Find another one.
Summary: What I'd Tell My Younger Self
If I could go back to 2017 with my current knowledge, I'd tell myself three things:
- Always verify the orifice size for the fuel and elevation. Don't assume the 'propane' model is ready for any altitude. That $4,800 mistake is still a gut punch to think about. (So glad I now have a checklist on my wall.)
- Don't upsize a replacement heater without checking vent compatibility. It's almost always not worth the extra labor.
- Avoid vent-free heaters for new builds unless your local code explicitly allows it and the space is large enough. Not worth the risk of a failed inspection.
I learned these lessons through mistakes. But you don't have to—if you follow this scenario-based approach, you'll probably avoid the worst of them.
Prices referenced as of January 2025. Verify current pricing and part availability with Empire Comfort Systems or your supplier.
