How to Turn On an Empire Comfort Systems Gas Heater (Plus Why the Pilot Keeps Going Out)

How Do I Turn On an Empire Comfort Systems Gas Heater?

I work on gas-fired heating equipment in the St. Louis area, which means Empire Comfort Systems heaters and fireplaces show up on my schedule almost every week. The two questions I get most often are how do I turn it on? and why won't it stay lit? This article is the answer I usually give over the phone, minus the part where I ask you to read the model number to me three times.

Most Empire gas heaters with a standing pilot use a gas control valve marked OFF, PILOT, and ON. Your manual is the final word, but the sequence goes like this:

1. Turn the thermostat off, turn the control knob to OFF, and wait at least five minutes. If you smell gas at any point, do not try again. Follow the gas-smell steps below.
2. If the unit runs on propane, walk to the tank and open the service valve fully. A tank valve that is only slightly open can feed a weak pilot flame that won't stay lit.
3. Take off the lower access panel so you can see the gas control valve. Turn the knob to PILOT.
4. Push the knob in firmly and keep holding it. While holding it, press the piezo igniter button. On older units without a piezo button, use a long lighter to light the pilot through the opening.
5. Once the pilot flame is burning, keep holding the knob in for 30 to 60 seconds. That gives the thermocouple time to heat up.
6. Release the knob. If the pilot stays lit, turn the knob to ON, replace the panel, and set the thermostat to heat.

If the pilot won't light at all, check the basics before you blame the heater. Is the propane tank actually open? Is the natural gas shutoff valve at the appliance in the open position? If a propane tank was just changed, the gas line may have air in it and can take a few attempts to clear. Stop after a few tries and call a pro if it still won't light.

Pilot Lights but Goes Out When I Let Go—What's Wrong?

That symptom usually points to a thermocouple that isn't generating enough voltage to hold the gas valve open. But before you order parts, check the gas supply. A weak, orange pilot flame is often a supply problem, not a parts problem.

Here's a mistake I admit freely: in September 2022, I spent most of a morning inspecting a wall furnace, cleaned the pilot assembly, and replaced a thermocouple that was probably fine. The real issue was that the propane service valve at the tank had been left barely cracked open after an inspection. The pilot flame was too weak to satisfy the thermocouple. Opening the tank valve all the way fixed it. That was the day I added check the gas supply first to every trouble-shooting checklist our team uses.

If the supply is fine, work through these steps:

• Look at the pilot flame. It should be blue and steady. A yellow or lazy flame means the pilot assembly is dirty or the orifice is partially blocked.
• Check the thermocouple position. The tip needs to be close enough that the pilot flame wraps around the upper portion of it.
• Clean the tip of the thermocouple with fine sandpaper or emery cloth. Do not use oil on it.
• Make sure the thermocouple connection at the gas control valve is snug. A loose connection causes intermittent pilot dropouts.

If cleaning and tightening don't help, the thermocouple is probably weak. A healthy thermocouple on a millivolt system usually reads somewhere around 25 to 35 millivolts when the pilot is hot, but check the manufacturer's specification for your control. If the reading is low or zero, replace it.

Is This a Job for a Pro, or Can I Handle It?

I'm comfortable telling a homeowner how to relight a pilot and clean a visible pilot assembly. That's basic maintenance. But I'm a gas appliance technician, not an HVAC engineer. If the problem moves beyond the pilot assembly into gas piping, the gas control valve, or the heat exchanger, I hand it to a licensed professional.

Also, gas work rules vary by location. A homeowner can do some things in one state and shouldn't touch them in another. Check your local code before you go beyond the manual.

For a price anchor, our shop's standard no-heat diagnostic visit in the St. Louis metro area was $145 as of January 2025. Rates change and vary by area, so verify current pricing. Sometimes a service call is the cheapest option compared with guessing and paying for two or three unnecessary parts.

Should I Buy a Cheap Replacement Part or a Genuine Empire Part?

Real talk: I have bought aftermarket parts for my own equipment. For cosmetic items like vent screens or trim, a generic part can be perfectly fine. But for gas safety components—thermocouples, thermopiles, gas valves, and regulators—I go with genuine Empire parts or a proven brand from an HVAC distributor.

Here's the cost math that matters. Let's say a no-name thermocouple costs $12 and a genuine Empire thermocouple costs around $28. If the cheap one works, you saved $16. If it fails three weeks later, that's another trip, another diagnostic fee, and another part. One callback at $145 completely wipes out the savings. The lowest price is not the lowest total cost.

I also look for safety certification. A gas component sold for use in the U.S. should show a recognizable certification mark such as CSA, AGA, or UL. When the packaging doesn't show any certification, I don't install it on something that creates a live flame inside a home.

Why Does My Heater Smell Like Burning Dust? Or Like Gas?

If a heater has been sitting all summer, the first burn of the season can smell like burning dust. That smell should fade within a few minutes. If it doesn't go away, or if it comes back every time the burner runs, shut the unit down and have it inspected.

Gas is different. The rotten egg, sulfur, or skunk smell is the odorant added to propane and natural gas so leaks are detectable. If you smell that, do not keep clicking the igniter. Do not flip light switches. Leave the building, and call your propane supplier or gas utility from outside. The National Fuel Gas Code, NFPA 54, is clear that a leaking system has to be shut off and repaired by a qualified person before it is put back into service.

Before You Call Empire Support, Find the Model and Serial Number

This is the question people don't think to ask before calling for help. Empire Comfort Systems support and any dealer ordering parts will ask for the model and serial number. Without it, you get guesswork.

The rating plate is usually on a metal or white label behind the lower access panel, near the gas control valve, or on the inside frame of the unit. It is not the brand name printed on the front glass or louver. Take a clear photo with your phone and zoom in if needed. Having that photo ready saves a second trip and can be the difference between a one-visit repair and a parts roulette situation.

If you've checked the supply, cleaned the pilot, verified the thermocouple, and still need parts, start with the rating plate. And when it comes to safety components, skip the cheapest option. The cheapest repair is the one you only have to do once.