Empire Comfort Systems FAQ: Contractor Answers on Remotes, Cleaning, Soundproofing, and More

Every few months, a contractor or property manager calls me with the same list of questions about Empire Comfort Systems products. I don't install units anymore, but I've been the procurement manager for a 14-person HVAC company in the Chicago suburbs for 6 years. I sign off on roughly $220,000 a year in heating equipment and replacement parts, and every order goes through our cost tracking system. I've negotiated with more than 40 vendors in that time. This FAQ is the short version of what I wish I could hand someone before they order. If you're comparing gas fireplaces, dealing with a remote, or just trying to avoid a costly redo, these are the questions worth reading.

Here's what we'll cover:

• What exactly does Empire Comfort Systems make?
• Is Empire Comfort Systems a reliable brand?
• Why won't my Empire Comfort Systems remote work?
• How do you clean gas fireplace glass?
• Do I need sound proofing panels around a fireplace?
• Should I buy OEM parts or aftermarket parts?
• Can you install a bathtub faucet during the same project?

What exactly does Empire Comfort Systems make?

Empire Comfort Systems has been in the gas heating business for a long time. Their main product line is gas fireplaces, gas logs, direct-vent wall heaters, and thermostats. They also sell replacement parts and support services, which matters if you're a dealer or contractor. As of January 2025, I'd describe them as a gas-heating specialist rather than a full-line HVAC manufacturer. That's not a knock; it means they focus on one thing and do it well. When we're bidding a new build or a room addition with a gas-hearth feature, Empire products cover most of the spec table. If the project calls for a standard forced-air furnace or an air conditioner, that's outside their scope, and we spec a different brand for that part of the job.

Is Empire Comfort Systems a reliable brand?

I don't have hard data on industry-wide defect rates, and I don't think anyone does. What I can say anecdotally is that in the 80+ Empire units we've installed, most of the problems we saw were installation-related, not manufacturing-related. I'm not 100% sure of the exact split, but if I had to guess, maybe 90% of the warranty calls we logged involved venting, gas pressure, or electrical connections. The units themselves were usually fine. That's why I tell contractors to spend time on the setup, not just the purchase price. Also, Empire's tech support has been fairly responsive when we need spec sheets or wiring diagrams. That matters more to me than a slightly lower box price.

Why won't my Empire Comfort Systems remote work?

Let me tell you how I learned this one. In my first year of managing inventory, a field crew came back saying a brand-new Empire Comfort Systems remote wouldn't talk to the fireplace. I approved a replacement remote the next day—around $140 from our supplier, as of January 2025. When the replacement arrived, the original remote worked fine. The problem was a loose connection at the wall switch. That classic rookie mistake cost us an unnecessary part, a 45-minute re-order, and an extra service call. The fix took 10 minutes.

Before you order a replacement Empire Comfort Systems remote, do this: put fresh batteries in both the handheld unit and the receiver, check the wiring at the wall switch, and cycle the power off for 60 seconds. According to Empire Comfort Systems' support pages on empirecomfort.com, some receivers need to be paired again after a power outage. I didn't know that until the third time we had a 'dead' remote. The lesson is simple: the most likely cause isn't the part you're about to replace.

How do you clean gas fireplace glass?

Use ceramic glass cleaner, not regular window cleaner. We learned that the hard way a few years ago. Our crew saved about $60 by buying a generic multi-surface glass cleaner, used it on a customer's fireplace glass before the next burn, and the residue baked into a white film. It looked worse than the original soot. We ended up replacing the panel for roughly $220. So the cheap option cost us more than three times what the whole cleaning job should have been.

For routine soot, our field crew keeps Sprayway glass cleaner in the truck. It's relatively inexpensive and doesn't leave much residue. For baked-on carbon, I'd use a cleaner specifically made for ceramic glass fireplace doors. The key is to clean when the glass is cool and avoid getting any spray near the gas lines or ignition. If you're managing a maintenance contract, this is a small line item that can prevent an expensive callback.

Do I need sound proofing panels around a gas fireplace?

Sometimes yes, but not the way people think. The blower on a direct-vent fireplace makes a low air-flow sound, not a loud mechanical rattle. If the unit sits in a wall shared with a bedroom or office, sound proofing panels in the chase can take the edge off. What I mean is that the panels belong around the chase, not packed against the appliance. And never block the combustion air louver.

I don't keep dB data on fireplaces in my cost-tracking spreadsheet, but I can tell you that more often than not, the noise complaint is about full-speed air movement. The question isn't 'Do you need sound proofing panels?' It's 'Do you need a variable-speed blower control?' Installing that control has solved more customer complaints for us than any acoustic treatment. If you do add panels, use a material rated for the temperatures around the fireplace chase.

Should I buy OEM parts or aftermarket parts?

Aftermarket parts are usually cheaper on the invoice, but they can be more expensive on the job. We bought an aftermarket pilot assembly once because it cost $35 less than the Empire part. It didn't align correctly, the installer spent an extra hour making it fit, and we ended up ordering the OEM part anyway. The 'savings' disappeared after return shipping, the extra labor, and a schedule delay.

What I mean is that the cheapest option isn't just about the sticker price—it's about the total cost, including your time spent managing issues, the risk of delays, and the potential need for redos. For replacement parts, our default is to buy OEM first, unless the OEM part and the aftermarket part are functionally identical, which is rare. We order replacement parts directly or through our Empire Comfort Systems rep. It keeps the warranty trail clean and avoids compatibility questions.

Can you install a bathtub faucet during the same project?

This question looks out of place here, but contractors get pulled into side projects more often than you'd think. If a homeowner says, 'Since you're opening up the wall anyway, can you swap the tub faucet?' you need a straightforward answer. The short version of how to install bathtub faucet goes like this: shut off the water, drain the lines, remove the old trim and valve, install the new tub spout and diverter, then leak-test before closing the wall.

If you're handling it yourself, the main steps are:

1. Shut off the main water supply and open the tub faucet to drain the lines.
2. Remove the old handle, trim plate, and valve body.
3. Install the new valve body so the inlet ports align with the stub-outs.
4. Attach the tub spout and diverter according to the manufacturer's instructions.
5. Turn the water back on slowly and check for leaks before sealing the wall.

This is a plumbing permit job in many jurisdictions, so verify your local code before starting. If you're not a licensed plumber, this is one of those projects where hiring the right trade is cheaper than fixing water damage.