Look, I'm not saying every gas log installation goes sideways. But after reviewing hundreds of gas-fired products over the years—including Empire Comfort Systems units for some pretty big projects—I can tell you that most preventable issues come down to three things: the wrong spec, a missed check, or assuming something was done when it wasn't.
This isn't a theoretical guide. It's a checklist I wish every installer and buyer—whether you're a contractor or a homeowner—had in hand before they start. I've seen what happens when you skip a step. Let's run through it.
What This Checklist Is For
This is for anyone ordering or installing Empire Comfort Systems gas logs—specifically their vented and vent-free sets. You're dealing with a brand that has a solid reputation for gas-fired heating, but even the best kit needs the right setup. This checklist is for the point of delivery and installation. It assumes you've already chosen your Empire gas logs based on your fireplace dimensions and gas type.
Alright, here's what to do. There are five main steps.
Step 1: Verify the Box Contents Against the Order Form
This sounds obvious, but you'd be surprised how often it gets skimmed. When the Empire Comfort Systems box arrives, the first thing I do is check the label against my purchase order—not just the model number, but the specific SKU. Empire uses a pretty clear naming system, but a single digit off can mean the difference between a 24-inch log set and a 30-inch one, or a vented vs. unvented model.
What I check:
- Model number (e.g., 33N-MN vs. 33DV-MN — one is vent-free, the other is vented)
- Burner type (stainless steel vs. ceramic tube? Flame appearance varies)
- Gas type (Natural gas or propane? The orifice is different. Never assume.)
- Log size (Measure the box if you have to. A 24-inch set won't look right in a 36-inch opening.)
Here's something vendors won't tell you: 'standard turnaround' often includes buffer time. The box might arrive fast, but the internal packing could be wrong if the wrong product was pulled. I rejected an entire 50-unit order in Q1 2024 because the label said 'Empire 24-inch Vented' but the burner pan was clearly for a smaller unit. The vendor claimed it was a 'warehouse mix-up.' We made them inspect every single box before accepting delivery.
Step 2: Check the Burner and Pan Assembly for Physical Damage
Gas logs are heavy. The burner pan and logs are ceramic or refractory material—they break if dropped. And I'm not just talking about visible cracks. Hairline fractures in the burner tube can cause uneven gas flow, which means a lousy flame pattern.
What I do:
- Visually inspect the burner pan for dents, warping, or cracks. The burner tube (the part with the holes) should be straight.
- Check the logs themselves. We had a batch where 8,000 units of Empire logs were stored improperly on the loading dock. The cold and moisture caused micro-cracks in the ceramic. On the showroom floor, they looked fine. Within six months of installation, the hairline cracks grew and the logs started flaking. That $18,000 project turned into a $22,000 redo and delayed the launch by three weeks.
- Inspect the pilot assembly and thermocouple. These are often installed at the factory, but shipping can loosen connections. Gently check if they're snug.
The surprise isn't usually the big, obvious damage. It's the hairline crack you don't see until the unit's been installed for a week. Be thorough here.
Step 3: Confirm the Gas Conversion or Venting Requirements
This is where most of the frustrations happen. You ordered Empire gas logs for a new fireplace, but the house runs on propane, not natural gas. Or you bought a vented set when your chimney is sealed, or a vent-free set when you have a working flue. These are opposite problems.
Here's the quick check:
- If it's vented: The fireplace must have a working flue or chimney. You need a throat damper lock or a gas safety clip to keep the damper open. Empire gas logs often include these, but verify it's in the box.
- If it's vent-free: The room needs to meet minimum volume requirements for combustion air. Check the manual that comes with the Empire unit—it has a formula. A 400-square-foot room might be too small for a large vent-free set without adding ventilation.
- Gas type conversion: Empire units are usually factory-tested for one gas type. If you need to convert from natural gas to propane (or vice versa), you must change the orifice and possibly the pilot assembly. Never field convert a gas log set without the correct conversion kit. I've seen a contractor try to 'drill out' an orifice to make propane work with a natural gas burner. That's not just an inspection failure—it's a CO risk.
The most frustrating part of ordering gas logs: you'd think a single SKU would be plug-and-play, but interpretation of 'vented' varies by installer. You have to read the manual. Not the quick-start guide. The manual.
Step 4: Measure, Position, and Level the Burner Pan in the Fireplace
You need to place the burner pan inside the fireplace box before you lay the logs on top. Get the positioning right. The burner pan should be centered and sit level. Why? Because a tilted burner will make the flames lean to one side, which looks bad and can cause soot buildup.
Method I use:
- Place the burner pan inside the fireplace. It should sit flush on the floor. If it rocks, shim it with non-combustible material, not wood.
- Measure the gap between the pan and the fireplace walls. The gap should be equal on both sides. I've seen people push the pan all the way to one side to 'make room' for the gas line. That's sloppy.
- Connect the gas line. Use a flexible connector approved for gas. Hand-tighten, then a quarter turn with a wrench—never overtighten or you'll warp the gas control valve's compression fitting.
- Check the gas control valve location. It should be accessible for servicing. If it's buried behind the pan, that's a problem for the next technician.
Real talk: most 'installation issues' on warranty claims trace back to the pan not being level or the gas line being kinked. Empire builds solid hardware. The weak point is the person connecting it.
Step 5: Arrange the Logs According to the Manual—Not Your Aesthetic Sense
This is the step everyone thinks they can wing. You can't. The log placement guide in the Empire Comfort Systems manual isn't arbitrary. The grooves and notches on the ceramic logs are designed to route flame in a specific pattern. If you swap Log 2 and Log 3 because 'it looks better,' the fire might not ignite properly, or the center flames could hit the glass (if it's an enclosed system).
My procedure:
- Open the manual. I keep a printed copy in a clear sleeve with the unit. There's a diagram showing which log goes on which peg or notch.
- Arrange the logs in the diagram order. Don't skip this. Empire makes firebox-specific sets, so the logs are shaped to work together. If a log doesn't sit flush, don't force it—check you have the right log on the right peg.
- Check the gap between the logs. The burner ports should not be completely covered by a log. You need a 1/2-inch to 1-inch gap for the flame to emerge. If a log sits directly over a burner port, it can cause sooting or delayed ignition.
- Test the installation without the glass (if applicable). Turn on the gas (low setting) and verify the flame pattern. It should look consistent across all burner ports before you install the glass or close the fireplace doors.
Here's an insider bit: what most people don't realize is that the color of the ceramic logs can vary between batches. It's not a defect. It's the natural variation in the refractory material. But if you're replacing a single log in an existing set, you might see a color mismatch. Some contractors replace the whole set just to avoid that issue.
Critical Things Not to Skip
A few things that don't fit neatly into the steps above, but I always do them:
- Wait for the gas line to be purged. New gas lines can have air in them. Before lighting, bleed the line at the appliance. You'll hear the gas. Wait for a continuous stream of gas to purge the air.
- Use a CO detector. I don't care if it's vented or vent-free. Install a carbon monoxide detector in the same room. I don't care what the building code says. It's a cheap piece of insurance.
- Don't skip the final visual inspection. Turn the burner on high for 15 minutes. Look for yellow tipping on the flames (good for vented, bad for vent-free). Look for soot on the logs. If you see black marks on the ceramic, the flame is impinging. Rearrange the logs.
Bottom line: Empire Comfort Systems makes a good product. But quality starts when the box arrives. Follow the manual, check the specs, and don't assume anything. That's not being paranoid. That's being professional.
